Better Hair Coloring

Tuesday, August 02, 2005

104: UNUSED TINT

104. UNUSED TINT

PROBLEM: Saving unused portions of tint for future use .

CAUSE: This is an economical thing to do. It becomes especially im-portant when more than one shade is being used for a treatment and you find yourself with two or more half used bottles of tint.

SOLUTION: Light colors are still good for treatment a week later. Dark shades are kept longer than that. When two colors are mixed on one patron, you may combine the unused portions in one bottle. This leaves no room for air space, therefore, the tint is preserved for many months. You can then re-use this mixture on the same patron. Be sure to mark combinations on the bottle. NOTE: Tints or bleaches must not be saved after mixing with developer.

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105 SOLID TABLETS VERSUS LIQUID PEROXIDE

105. SOLID TABLETS VERSUS LIQUID PEROXIDE

PROBLEM: In using Instant Clairol, liquid peroxide sometimes is sub-stituted for solid tablets with improper results.

CAUSE: Peroxide in liquid form should not be used with Instant Clairol because it has a tendency to thin the color and coverage will not be as good.

SOLUTION: Instant Clairol is made to be mixed with tablets. If tablets are soft and crumbly, replace with hard, firm ones.

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106 MISS CLAIROL FOAMS AFTER STANDING

106. MISS CLAIROL FOAMS AFTER STANDING

PROBLEM: Sometimes when using Miss Clairol, it will start to foam
after it has been mixed and stands for a short while.

CAUSE: This may be caused by shaking of by the fact that the developer
or tint has been kept in a warm place such as an over-heated room or in
sunlight or near a radiator.

SOLUTION: If the tint is mixed in a dish, pour it into a larger dish. If
the plastic applicator is used, run cold water over the applicator.

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107 Tint Or Bleach Too Thick

107. TINT OR BLEACH TOO THICK

PROBLEM: Tint or bleach may have a very thick consistency when poured.
Bleach may become opaque.
1. Tint or bleach may have been stored at low temperature and frozen.
This does not damage the material.
2. Old merchandise. Tint or bleach will take longer to develop.

SOLUTION: If the tint or bleach has been frozen, warm to room temperature before using. If it is old, check your application carefully to allow sufficient development time. (Additional time is needed.) It is important always to check the dates on tint bottles and keep fresh stock on hand.

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108. Slow Color or Bleach Development Low Temperature

108. SLOW COLOR OR BLEACH DEVELOPMENT LOW TEMPERATURE

PROBLEM: On cold mornings tint or bleach may take longer than usual to develop.

CAUSE: Cold retards action. Heat speeds action.

SOLUTION: When storing overnight, be sure that the tint you wish to
use in the morning is kept away from extreme cold.

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109. Bleach Mixture too Frothy

109. BLEACH MIXTURE TOO FROTHY

PROBLEM: When using bleaches which require beating, you may find the material becoming too frothy and light, making it difficult to pack.

CAUSE: Mixture has been exposed to metal either by use of a metal dish or inferior beater.

SOLUTION: For best results, use a plastic or glass dish and a good stainless steel beater. Beaters with thin stainless steel coatings are not advisable because the stainless steel wears off rapidly.

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110. Tint or Bleach Mixture too Frothy Impure Developer

PROBLEM: Sometimes when tint or bleach is mixed with developer, it immediately begins to froth and double and triple itself in quantity.

CAUSE: Impure developer.

SOLUTION: Discard the mixture and prepare a new mixture using another bottle of developer. Not all developers are chemically pure. When using Clairol products, best results can be obtained by using Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer which are laboratory tested to produce the best results.

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GLOSSARY OF PRODUCTS

GLOSSARY OF PRODUCTS
MISS CLAIROL HAIR COLOR BATH—Regular and Creme Formula
New method of tinting hair that has revolutionized haircoloring.
No pre-bleaching or pre-shampooing needed. Lightens as it colors, and conditions in one simple operation. Completely covers gray hair. Comes in regular and creme formula.

LIST OF COLORS
No. No.
40 Topaz 46 Chestnut Brown
41 Golden Apricot 47 Red Ginger
42 Moongold 57 Coffee Brown
43 Sun Bronze 48 Sable Brown
33 Flame 49 Ermine
44 Coppertone 50 Starlight
45 Sparkling Sherry 51 Black Velvet

MISS CLAIROL PLASTIC APPLICATOR
A polyethylene squeeze bottle that comes complete with plastic appli-cator cap. Parting and application can be done in one motion. Graduated ounce scale simplifies mixing of formula.
CLAIROL SALON FORMULA
A concentrated oil shampoo tint in colors ranging from blonde to black to be used with liquid 20-volume peroxide. Blonde colors, which are important for toning work in Silver, Ash and Platinum Blonding, are also available in the Clairol Creme Toner series.
CLAIROL CREME TONER
A creme formulation of Clairol Salon Formula Oil Shampoo Tint in a wide variety of blonde shades for toning work.
CLAIROL CRÈME TONER AND SALLON FORMULA
LIST OF COLORS
CLAIROL CRÈME TONER AND SALLON FORMULA
LIST OF COLORS
SHADES AVAILABLE IN SHADES AVAILABLE
BOTH CLAIROL CRÈME ONLY IN CLAIROL
TONER AND SALON SALON FORMULA
FORMULA

Gold Colors
11A Light Blonde
Ash Tones 10A Golden Blonde
9A Light Ash Blonde10C Light Titian Blonde
Moonbeam Blonde 10D Deep Golden Blonde
10B Medium Ash Blonde11B Reddish Blonde
11 Light Golden Brown
Platinum Tones 15A Medium Blonde
Extra-Lite Platinum15C Dark Titian Blonde
Silver Platinum 15D Golden Brown
Silver Smoke 11D Deep Golden Brown

Silver Tones Red and Warm Colors
Extra-Lite Silver BlondeExtra-Lite C Red Blonde
Silver Smoke 10 Honey Brown
Silver Blue 12 Titian Brown
Extra-Lite D Auburn
Extra-Lite Tones 12A Light Auburn
Extra-Lite A Blonde 12 B Light Bronze Auburn
Extra-Lite B Golden Blonde 14A Dark Auburn
Strawberry Blonde 14B Dark Bronze Auburn
16A Light Warm Brown
SHADES AVAILABLE 16B Russet Brown
ONLY IN CLAIROL 16C Light Brown
CRÈME TONER 15B Mink Brown
17A Medium Warm Brown
18A Dark Warm Brown
Beige Tones
White Beige Drab Colors
Platinum Beige 15G Light Drab Blonde
Champagne Beige 15E Ash Blonde
Silver Beige 15 Dark Ash Blonde
Rose Beige 16 Light Drab Brown
Buttercup 17 Medium Drab Brown
18 Dark Drab Brown
Chiffon Tones 19 Black
Ivory Chiffon 20 Blue Black
Honey Chiffon
Pink Chiffon RED FASHION COLORS
Peach Chiffon Fire Silver
Sun Silver
Pink Silver
Cherry Silver



CLAIROL COME ALIVE RINSES
Temporary rinses to beautify gray hair, to give color highlights and/or provide color changes to all shades of hair, depending on the color used. Their iridescent sheen and color will last until washed out with soap and water. Clairol Come Alive Rinses blend in gray hair and cover it temporarily.
To beautify gray hair with glowing iridescence:

COME ALIVE GRAY
White Sapphire Black Pearl
Silver Diamond Midnight Opal
To impart natural-looking color tones and highlights or to cover gray: COME ALIVE RED COME ALIVE BLONDE COME ALIVE BROWN
CLAIROLITE (BRILLIANTINE LIGHTENER)
A modern oil bleach. Contains oils that help to condition the hair as it bleaches and adds glorious color tones.
LIST OF COLORS
No.

1. Gold
2. Silver (Drab)
3. Red
4. Neutral
5 Sparkling Silver
INSTANT WHIP LADY CLAIROL CREME HAIR LIGHTENER
Like Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener but faster to use. Stirs to thick creme consistency or may be mixed in applicator and ap-plied to cut mix and application time by half.

LADY CLAIROL WHIPPED CREME HAIR LIGHTENER
An all-purpose bleach that conditions as it lightens. No final shampoo is needed. Twice as fast as ordinary bleaches. Easy to apply. Action lasts up to two hours. Does not run. Stays where it is applied.

LADY CLAIROL LIGHTENING BOOSTER
A special preparation for use with Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener. Speeds up bleaching action. An indispensable aid in decolor-izing hair for Silver, Ash, Platinum and all Blonde toning.

ULTRA-BLUE LADY CLAIROL CREMOGENIZED HAIR LIGHTENER
Newest and fastest Lady Clairol creme bleach, especially designed to make pre-bleaching more comfortable than ever before. Produces lighter, drabber blonding results in less time. Mixed in applicator or bowl, it reaches a smooth creme consistency instantly.

ULTRA-BLUE LADY CLAIROL PROTINATOR
Made to be mixed only with Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol. One to three envelopes added to an Ultra-Blue formula will increase the speed and drabbing action of the mixture without affecting mixing time or texture.

BLUE LIGHTENING POWDER BLEACH
The all-purpose powder bleach for fast bleaching action. To be used on strong, resistant hair or for Frosting, Tipping, Streaking and Clairol Sun Tips. Also ideal for stripping or lightening color.

SILVER DROPS
A highly concentrated color which may be added to Lady Clairol or any neutral oil bleach to help drab out red tones during bleaching. Also used with tints to give drabber shades.

CLAIROXIDE
A superior, laboratory-controlled, highly stabilized 20-volume hydro-gen peroxide. Recommended for salon use in tinting and bleaching. Stays stronger longer.

PURE WHITE CREME DEVELOPER
Pure White Creme Developer, a new replacement for ordinary hydro-gen peroxide. Pure White has a rich cream consistency that makes all tints and bleaches easier to use. When mixed with liquid tints, it prevents dripping and drying out. It insures more intense color and faster bleaching.

SYLK
A neutral hair rinse that makes water softer. Used to prepare hair for better tinting, bleaching, permanent waving. Dissolves soap scum completely when used after a shampoo.

METALEX
A superb hair conditioner. Helps remove metallic dyes and coating materials from hair. Conditions damaged hair. Helps make permanent waving, bleaching and tinting results better.

HAIR-SO-NEW
An amazing new conditioner that acts instantly to give hair new sheen and condition as it sets the hair. It serves as creme rinse, condi-tioning treatment and setting lotion—all in one.

REMOV-ZIT
A preparation for removing penetrating tints from hair. Does not leave the hair completely white, but prepares it for all tinting or bleach-ing treatments.

VITAPOINTE
Creme hairdress and conditioner. A light, non-greasy creme. Adds sheen. Protects color and curl in natural and tinted hair. May be used on dry or wet hair.

CLAIROL SHAMPOO FOR BLEACHED AND TONED HAIR
A blue concentrate that will not strip color from bleached and toned hair. Perfectly balanced formula provides better cleansing, condition-ing, manageability and lathering. Contains dandruff fighter.

CLAIROL SHAMPOO FOR TINTED HAIR
A green concentrate that will not streak color from tinted hair. Perfectly balanced formula assures superior cleansing, conditioning and manage-ability—richer lather. Also contains dandruff fighter.

CLAIROL HAIR CRAYON
A non-greasy brush touch-up crayon for use regularly between tint-ing treatments. Conceals gray hair.

LIST OF COLORS
Black Light Warm Brown Light Auburn
Light Brown Medium Warm Brown Medium Blonde
Medium Brown Dark Warm Brown Light Blonde
Dark Brown Auburn Titian Brown


Full book can be read at
Better Hair Coloring

Dictionary of Hair Coloring Terms

DICTIONARY OF
HAIR COLORING TERMS


Allergy - A hypersentivity to certain foods, cosmetics, tints or other substances.
Aniline - A coal tar derivative used in penetrating tints.
Bleach - A preparation which lightens the hair by removing the pigmentation.
Bleach Pack - A bleach solution prepared in a thick consistency.
Blending - The process of evening color throughout the hair strand during retouches.
Breakage - A condition in which hair splits and breaks off. Caused by overbleaching, improper per-manent waving.
Certified Color- A temporary coloring which coats the hair.
No patch test is necessary when certified colors are used.
Coating - Residue left on the outside of the hair shaft.
Color Mixing - Mixing two shades of Miss Clairol together for an in-between color.
Color Test -The process of washing or drying a strand of hair to determine progress during tinting or bleaching.
Coverage - Coloring gray or white hair.
Decolorization - Removal of color from hair.
Developer Clairoxide, Pure White Creme Developer or a 20-vol. peroxide which is mixed with tints, dyes and bleaches to produce final results.
Development Time Time needed to develop the color or the
bleach. It begins at completion of applica-tion.
Discoloration Development of an undesired color.
Drab - A shade which contains no red or gold tones.
To drab hair means to remove red and gold tones from hair.
Frosting Lightening small sections of hair through out the head.
Hair Color Bath .... Miss Clairol—a permanent color. Lightens,
colors, conditions and shampoos in one ap-plication.
Highlighting Brightening the appearance of hair by adding color tones.
Line of Demarcation . . A streak caused by overlapping on previous-ly tinted hair. Not possible with Miss Clairol.
Metallic Dyes Permanent color which contains metal salts.
Over-lap The condition caused when the bleach or
tint runs down the hair strand during a re-touch.
Oxidation The development of the tint after Clairoxide
or Pure White Creme Developer is added.
Patch Test A test given 24 hours prior to a tint treatment to ascertain whether or not a patron
is allergic or hyper-sensitive to the tint. It is required by law.
Penetrating Tint A tint which penetrates into hair shaft and deposits color permanently.
Pepper and Salt . A term used for hair that has a mixture of pigmented and white strands.
Peroxometer A device which measures the strength of hydrogen peroxide.
Plastic Applicator Pliable, squeeze bottle used for the appli-cation of Clairol tints, toners, bleaches and shampoos —■ eliminating the use of dish, comb, brush or swab. Nozzles are available to suit product consistency.
Porosity The condition of hair that makes it absorb moisture easily.
Powder Bleach A strong, fast-acting bleach used for spe-cial bleaching.
Pre-Bleaching The process of removing some color from the hair before a tint. Not necessary with Miss Clairol Hair Color Bath. The term is also used when highly decolorizing before applying the Blonde Toners.
Pre-Softening .... The application of a bleach solution for a short period of time in order to make hair more porous and less resistant to color. Not necessary with Miss Clairol Color Bath.
Problem Hair .... Hair difficult to tint, bleach or permanent wave.
Reconditioning .... The process of improving the condition of the hair.
Resistance The condition of hair that makes it difficult for solutions to penetrate the hair strand.
Retouch The process of coloring the new growth on tinted or bleached hair.
Rinse A temporary haircoloring such as Come Alive Gray.
Shampoo Tint .... A penetrating tint which contains, in addi-tion to color, a superfine liquid shampoo that cleanses the hair as it colors.
Skin Test Same as Patch Test.
Soap Cap The process of diluting tint with shampoo or water and working it through the head like a shampoo.
Spot Bleaching Applying bleach only to dark areas to even out color.
Spot Tinting Applying tint to areas insufficiently colored in order to produce even results throughout.
Strand Test A preliminary test given before a coloring
treatment on a single strand of hair. It is used to predetermine the mixture and development time required during the treatment.
Streaking Lightening from two to four strands at the hairline.
Streaks Dark or light areas on hair caused by improper application of tint or bleach.
Stripping The removal of artificial color from the hair.
Sun Tips An exclusive Clairol method of lightening
hair around face. Combination of tipping and streaking.
Texture Refers to the thickness of hair, and whether it is soft, harsh or wiry.
Tint A preparation which colors hair permanently
Toner A delicate tint which is applied to highly
bleached hair to produce blonde shades.
Towel Drying Removal of excess water with towel.
Vegetable Color A coloring which coats the hair and is de-rived from henna, sage or indigo.
Virgin Hair Hair not previously treated with tints, bleaches, or permanents.
White Henna A magnesium carbonate added to hydrogen peroxide in order to thicken the bleach solution into a pack.
Conditioner Any product applied to hair to restore oils, sheen, elasticity and manageability.
Filler Tint or other product used to temporarily
provide fill for porous spots in hair during chemical treatments such as permanent waving, bleaching.
Hair Lightener Bleach product used to decolorize hair to varying degrees.
Hair Shaft Visible part of each strand of hair. It is made up of an outer layer called the cuticle, an innermost layer called the medulla, and an in-between layer called the cortex. The cortex layer is where color changes are made by modern penetrating tints such as Miss Clairol.
Pigment Coloring matter, either natural or artificial.
Red, gold, brown, or a combination thereof.
Tipping Tiny strands of hair to the front of the head are lightened to blend in with the darker hair.

Full book can be read at
Better Hair Coloring